デンマーク人のエスベンが、ふたりの共同経営者と2010年12月に始めたMAAEMO。彼らがいまノルウェーをはじめ欧州各国で注目されているのは、100%オーガニックな食材で、そのほとんどがノルウェー産のものだという点だ。
「ノルウェーに来て思うのは、北欧でもとくに自然への敬意をもっている国だということ。だからここでは、自然の恵みを料理や飲み物で味わうのはもちろん、ひと皿ごとの演出や、それを味わう空間まですべてで“ノルウェー”を表現している」。

メニューはすべて自然しだい。だから、日によって変わることもある。前菜やメインなどというコース料理の概念もない。訪れる客はひと皿ひと皿、次になにが起こるかわからない変化に富んだ“自然”という名の舞台を観るように、母なる大地、Mother Of Nature（＝MAAEMO）を感じて、楽しむ。

翌朝、オスロ市庁舎前の港でその日あがった魚を、漁師から直に買うことができる船を訪れた。「昨日はさっぱりだったけど、今日はまあまあだな」。きっとこれが、自然とともに生きる、ノルウェーらしい日常会話なのだろう。

Kolonihagen
Frognerveien 33 0263 Oslo　TEL: 99 31 68 10
www.kolonihagen.no

Tim Wendelboe　
Grünersgate 1 0552 Oslo　TEL: 40 00 40 62
www.timwendelboe.no

Maaemo　
Scweugaardsgate N15 N-0191 Oslo　TEL: 91 99 48 05
www.maaemo.no

Havsmak
Henrik Ibsens gate 4 0255 Oslo　TEL: 24 13 38 00
www.havsmak.no

Fiskeriet
Youngstorget 2b 0181 Oslo　TEL: 22 42 45 40
www.fiskeriet.com

The nighthawk diner　
Seilduksgata 15 0553 Oslo　TEL: 96 62 73 27
www.nighthawkdiner.com

※この記事は『PAPERSKY No.37』に掲載されています。

「ブルーボトル・カフェ」は、理想のコーヒーを求めて世界中を旅したオーナーのジェームスが、各地の豆を輸入し、コーヒースタンドでサービスしていたことから始まった店。コーヒー好きのルーカスも、「趣味で始めた店だというけれど、コーヒー好きの僕に言わせると、ここのコーヒーは、コクも香りも別格。とにかく、カリフォルニアに行ったら、かならず飲んでほしい。袋のロゴもかわいい」と絶賛しているほど。ポーチドエッグス＆トーストなど朝のメニューも格安。2008年に新オープンした店舗は、その味や、オーガニックという素材へのこだわり、天井の高い空間の心地よさが評判となり、ビジネスマンに嬉しい朝の立ち寄り場所となっている。目覚めの美味なる一杯は、きっと素敵な一日を約束してくれる。

» Blue Bottle Cafe
www.bluebottlecoffee.net

編集元の記事：Papersky No.25 カリフォルニア特集 P.34

噂を聞きつけたロコたちもそのおいしさにはまっているという豆腐は、なめらかなだけでなく、はっきりと甘く濃い大豆の風味を感じられるもの。フレッシュな豆乳も、クリーミーなのにサラッとした後味と評判だ。豆乳を使った日替わりスープや、バーガーやサンドイッチ、サラダなどのメニューも充実している。大豆の美味しさをハワイに広げていきたいという彼の思いは、今後さらに広がっていくだろう。

Soy To The World
In Manoa Market place
808-988-8555

【関連記事】
» ハワイのソウルフード、タロイモ
» ハワイ・すぐとなりにあるオーガニック

編集元の記事：Papersky No.22 ハワイ特集 P.48
Text: Kaori Akazawa

もう一つ忘れてはならないのが、厳しい寒さが育んできた郷土料理。日本海と太平洋、そして津軽海峡という二つの海を結ぶ豊かな海に面した青森は、世界のどこよりもバラエティに富む海の幸に恵まれた土地だ。吹雪の中、肩に積もった雪を払いながら居酒屋の暖簾をくぐれば、「じゃっぱ汁でも飲むかい？」と女将が出してくれるあたたかい鍋料理。ぶつ切りにした鱈の身とたっぷりの野菜、そして「アブラ」と呼ばれる鱈の肝がその味の決め手。湯気の立つスープは凍えた身体をじんわりと温め、外が吹雪だということさえ忘れさせてくれる。

» 鯵ヶ沢温泉 水軍の宿
» 郷土料理しまや
» 炉辺

See also: Papersky No.20 Aomori Issue

“I rarely eat out, especially at lunch, because you seldom get anything really satisfying. Either you pay an embarrassingly high price for a lavish meal, or a pittance for something made with no care. There’s no middle ground.” He seemed fairly excited to find such a carefully prepared meal for around ten dollars, at a casual neighborhood place where everything happens in a tiny kitchen with just two burners.

The secret to the impression of copiousness that a teishoku gives, of course, lies in how it breaks a meal down into several smaller components, many of which can be prepared in advance. Although our two mains were substantial in and of themselves – braised chicken in a syrupy, slightly caramelized black vinegar sauce with vegetables and a soft-cooked egg, and deep-fried yellowtail in a dashi broth with grated radish, also accompanied by a small heap of pan-roasted vegetables – lunch was nicely rounded off (or bulked up, depending on how you see it) by two other smaller side dishes.

Served together on the tray was a small cube of cold tofu topped with a lightly pickled mixture of whitebait, okra and chopped enoki mushrooms, spiked with a few sansho peppercorns. There was also a little saucer of bite-sized nibbles that included a thick slice of sweet omelet, a juicy piece of freeze-dried koya beancurd that had been thoroughly braised in thickened dashi stock, a chewy-crunchy morsel of mugwort konnyaku (devil’s root jelly), a slightly larger gnocchi-like sweet potato dumpling, and a single slice of tangy red radish dressed with rice wine lees.

Gatemo Tabum is a mostly one-woman operation helmed by the affable Chiori Yamamoto, a veteran chef who previously cooked for 12 years at a similar, casual restaurant in Sapporo called Haruya. Solitary diners dropping in for a warm, nourishing teishoku at midday or after work, groups of friends chatting over small tapas-like portions and glasses of wine or sake…the equivalent, I suppose, would be a sort of British gastropub.

Gatemto Tabun is located at 1-22-5 Uehara, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0062.
Tel: 03-3466-9590.

ペーパースカイは、フードコーディネーターの根本きこさんと一緒に、ハワイ・ワイマナロのタロイモ畑を訪れた。のんびりとした空気のなか、大きな棄をつけ、ゆらゆらと風に揺れるタロを見たきこさんは、どこかで見たことのあるような懐かしい光景…と、ひとこと。化学肥料をまったく使わずとも元気に育つこと、水のなかで育ったタロはやわらかく粘りカずあっておいしいことなど、トラクターで駆けつけてくれた畑の主・鳥取さんの話を感慨深げに聞き入っていた。

ハワイで広く食べられている「ポイ」は、タロイモを蒸してペースト状にし、水を加えてすりつぶしたもの。創業50年の人気食堂「オノ・ハワイアン・フード」では、プレートを注文すると、ポイかライスかを選ぶことができる。一番人気はハワイのご飯がセットになったコンビネーション・プレート。塩をした豚肉をタロの葉とティーリーフで包み、4〜5時間蒸したラウアウやカルアピッグ、ロミサーモン、ハワイのおやつハウピア、そして紫色のポイ（写真左奥）。ぜひ一度は試してみたい味だ。

タロイモはハワイでは一般的に「カロ」と呼ばれ、古くから神聖な食べ物とされてきた。各地のファーマーズマーケットではもちろん、タロイモのフェスティバルも開催されるなど、身近な食材として注目が集まっている。

【関連記事】
» ハワイ・すぐとなりにあるオーガニック
» 根本きこさんお気に入りのオーガニックスーパー

編集元の記事：Papersky No.22 ハワイ特集 P.57

海の幸や山の幸といった地元の食材が並ぶ中、青森といえば忘れてならないのがりんご。秋から冬にかけてのこの季節、夕食にはもちろん、客室のテーブルにはウェルカムドリンクならぬ、丸ごとのりんごが食べ放題なんてこともある。すばらしい温泉と、バラエティに富む山海の幸、そして豊富な果物。お膳に並んだ品々は、青森の食の豊かさを表している。

写真1: 温川山荘／ 写真2: 蔦温泉旅館／ 写真3: 酸ヶ湯温泉 ／写真4: 鯵ヶ沢温泉 水軍の宿

See also: Papersky No.20 Aomori Issue

カフェ ジャルダン マジョレル Cafe Jardin Majorelle
Avenue yacoub El Mansour Marrakech
(024) 30 37 79
6〜9月 8:00- 18:00、10〜5月 8:00- 17:00 （無休）
www.jardinmajorelle.com

編集元の記事：Papersky No.26 モロッコ特集 P.33

【関連記事】
» はじめまして、ミントティー飲む？

After the Rotterdam residency, how did Montreal fit in as a site-specific territory?

“The project in Montreal was shaped differently because I was offered a huge space to create an installation based on a similar concept. Deciding how to use the given space also gave this project a framework and helped me develop ideas and productions, resulting in a multi-media installation which consisted of photos, videos, sculptures and a workshop area; a bit more than just a record of a personal cross-cultural cooking log. I mean, I like eating and cooking but I don’t consider myself an artist specialized in food art however using food as materials was one convenient choice, especially nowadays, having a studio could cost you a fortune.”

How did you go about getting started?

“To proceed with the project, first I had to define some ideas about Canadian and more specifically, Montreal food. I decided to have a survey in the hope of knowing everybody’s eating habits so that I could incorporate that into my cooking. The whole production is based on the survey results collected from 154 Montrealers, the results of which are attached into the resulting cookbook.

So what about your relationship with Japanese food, did you grow up learning to cook at home or after moving away?

I don’t remember when I cooked for the first time nor a special day when my mother taught me how to cook, I have no eventful memory of it but I helped around the kitchen from a young age. Simple things like serving or peeling apples for example, like everybody did I suppose. I remember having to prepare rice when coming home from school everyday. We didn’t have a rice cooker then so I had to do it with a gas stove; I think I was in the third grade. But I was quite proud of myself for experimenting with rice washing techniques and, to think of it now I don’t understand why I had to do that. She cooks well though. She is from Kyoto and is living in Sapporo since she got married so perhaps I grew up with Kyoto style cooking. My father was a bit lazy and didn’t like eating fish with bones, so my mom says. He’s from Nagano and they eat more meat (and bugs), I think. When I was in the fifth and sixth grade we had home-economics class and I remember making egg omelette, hamburger steak, curry and maybe miso soup. It’s funny that they don’t teach you how to cook traditional Japanese food. When I was a teenager, I baked almost every other day as I drooled looking at cakes and dessert recipe books. 

The first year I moved to Montreal, I went to a Japanese restaurant, a reputable one in downtown. I didn’t order sushi but I saw the plate served to the next table. What caught my eyes was the crab, you know the fake red-painted one made of fish called Kanikama, the whole stick, like 3 inches long, was served as nigiri. The chefs were supposed to be Japanese there but I thought it wasn’t so Japanese. Since then, I hardly went out to eat Japanese as the experiences often ended somewhat disappointing. At home I don’t necessarily cook Japanese food but cooking Japanese cuisine outside of Japan is not very convenient, and I’m a lazy person to begin with so I don’t like going far to get my groceries, and even if I do go it doesn’t mean that I get to find all the ingredients I need. Besides, Japanese cooking tends to require several steps of preparation, uses a lot of water, many pots and serving plates. I cook Japanese rice only occasionally because it requires too much washing and soaking time. The everyday rice for me is Jasmin, and it’s probably very un-Japanese but this “Survival Japanese Cooking” project was sort of an effort for me to force myself to cook “Japanese” more often than usual. 

So what elements of Japanese food, culture, cuisine helped or limited you in this project?

Well, it would be a spirit of eating locally and things that are in season. Another thing would be the preparation of ingredients and even the presentation. For example, cutting vegetables in certain ways to suit different methods of cooking. I think that often in Japanese cooking, the shape of each food is well kept to be distinguished. If you follow any Japanese cook book for example, cutting vegetables is written in precise detail and seems an important element. Maybe this is one of reasons we never invented mashed potatoes? 

Through Survival Cooking, did you find Japanese ingredients to be versatile? The Natto Spaghetti comes to mind…

The Natto Spaghetti is an old recipe, not sure how old but it’s been around for a while, probably from late 80′s or early 90′s. As Pasta became popular there appeared more specialty restaurants with creative menus other than just meat sauce. Prior to that, what I remember of Spaghetti was that it was always served with canned meat sauce for Sunday lunch, or leftover noodles fried with some ketchup, which you probably still see in cheap bento boxes at convenience stores. The rice bun burger from Mos burger for an example is another example of the Japanese being infamous for transforming foreign/imported food to suit to our taste. I guess when we are in Japan, we don’t see the reverse cases that often? When I was still in Sapporo, I was once invited to a home dinner party hosted by a Canadian couple. This was about fifteen years ago. There was a dish, sort of a macaroni and cheese, but the macaroni was replaced with Udon noodles, the ones which are sold pre-cooked. For a noodle nerd like me it was a shock. It seemed disgustingly overcooked and soggy and I couldn’t eat it. I just wonder why she used Udon instead of Macaroni? I doubt that she couldn’t find Macaroni. It could’ve been sort of her way of doing Survival Canadian Cooking?

Interesting, what are some other examples?

I have this vegetarian, vegan cookbook written by an American chef and got it because I just wanted to learn about vegetarian cooking but found out that some Japanese-specific ingredients, like Hijiki and Umeboshi, were used for the more health-conscious recipes. It’s nice to learn how these ingredients are prepared in contrast to Japanese cuisine. At a market here in Montreal, you can find Shiso and Mizuna these days. My friend made me a dinner the other day, a grilled salmon on a bed of rice topped with green vegetable salad including Shiso leaves in large chunks. On the other hand, at most Sushi restaurants here (and they are run by non-Japanese) they have miso soup on their menu, there is even a “spicy” miso soup, and people order them with sushi. (Well, precisely, they have the soup first then sushi) And I have to ask myself, why? For me, I never have miso soup with sushi because that’s how I grew up. Speaking of sushi, they are not bad here in general, except some occasional surprises, like a pineapple maki I got the other day. But because of that, I won’t be shocked if I get a banana maki someday I got used to these creative North American rich maki rolls that when I last went back to Japan in 2004 I was somewhat unsatisfied by the real thing. They seemed too plain!  When I went to Sao Paulo and visited Liberdade, I was excited to see some Dango (sweet rice cake with red bean paste) but the color was far from being subtle, they were bright, pink and green. I couldn’t eat them, but I’m pretty sure I’d be eating them if I stayed there long enough. It’s just a matter of time but overall it’s interesting to see the transformation of a Japanese food when brought into and adapted to another culture.

Thanks Shie.

Shie Kasai is originally from Sapporo, Hokkaido.

Around five years ago, I relocated to Tokyo for art school and had started to work at a quaint French restaurant in Nakameguro. When I graduated, I was working as a print and graphic designer but felt I wanted to reconnect with cooking- something I had always done and felt separated from. As a creative practice, it seemed more hands on and, well, real to me. I didn’t put up much of a fight with those thoughts and switched back to cooking and started working at a restaurant, Combine (www.combine.jp) and there I had some more freedom to get creative on the lunch and dinner menus.

It just so happened that Combine was frequented by a lot of Germans and we all started to become friends as I always seemed be preparing their lunches or dinners a several times a week. Becoming friends with all these familiar faces made communication a lot easier since I didn’t speak a lot of English at the time and well, zero German too. Since my younger years, I knew I had wanted to live abroad but I never really had the time or chance and the more I thought about visiting my friends in Berlin, I felt the time was right and it just seemed like a logical decision. I thought to myself, if I don’t go know, I would never go.

As I started to think about relocating more and more, my Japanese and German friends became more and more supportive and helped me embrace the idea. One of my German friends helped me make a website and another friend helped with taking pictures of the food I was planning to make. Another designer friend who had previously lived in Europe helped me think about a lot of different things like presentation, pricing as well as the European sensibility towards food in contrast and comparison to the Japanese. My other German got behind the idea and starting talking to their friends and clients to help me make some contacts- that helped a lot. When I arrived, things were moving along pretty well and Berliners were pretty receptive to the Japanese food I was preparing. For the most part, I think most Germans are interested in Japanese food and Japanese culture and I had some real pleasurable experiences of preparing my food for openings parties and events during the Fashion Week in Berlin. I also started talking about preparing food for events and performances by artists like Richie Hawtin or Carsten Nicolai.

One expectation that I couldn’t really gauge was what ingredients would actually be available in Berlin. On my last day in Tokyo, I went to the Tsukiji Market to stock up on particular seaweeds and spices I thought were essential to my recipes. I did the same on my last visit to Tokyo just a few weeks ago, I stocked up on some Japanese grains which I’m planning to work into the menu for next Spring. So in Berlin, of course the ingredients were different but I was surprised to find a variation of the Japanese sweet potato. When I went to a farmer’s market set in one of Berlin parks, it turned out to be a welcome breath of inspiration. I was taking in the sights of a lot of fresh vegetables as well as a different variety of meats. I was even inspired by how the market itself operated- there were a lot of Turkish people who were running vegetable shops and I was able to see, touch and smell another variety of ingredients and spices. It just gave me more of an international sense to the food I was making and how I looked at cuisine in general. Visiting the different markets throughout the week has not only been a joy but I’ve also been tempted by the selection of potatoes, with variations that aren’t as sweet as others. Some of them were so sweet, that it has led me to the idea of using apples in some of the creations of my next menu. In my personal cooking, I’ve taken to German food and been learning to make more German foods which use a lot of different potatoes and meats which has led me to do a lot more baking and boiling. It’s been a a bit of a different regimen but I’m really enjoying it.

Now that I’m back in Berlin, I will be making some more special bentos, in particular for Berliners on the go and I’m planning to collaborate with some other local cafes, restaurants and events. I think it’s the best part of my experience in Berlin so far- sharing my own Japanese-style lunch box with people in another environment and communicating and celebrating through food.

For more about Okawari, visit www.okawari.de.

Combine Books, Cafe & Restaurant is located at 1-10-23 Nakameguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo. 03-3760-3939